Celestial Cities and Cosmic Temples: Astronomy and Power in Southern India
with Dr. E.C. Krupp
January 24 - February 14, 2009
Celestial symbols and myths sustained India’s rulers and shrines. Guided by the rhythms of the sky, the medieval kings and priests of India allied themselves with celestial power and ratified the bond in architecture, city planning, and temple ornament. The sun temple of Modhera, Kumbakonam’s carved zodiac and lunar mansions, and the cosmo-mythic rock relief of the Descent of the Milky Way at Mahabalipuram, the echo of the structure of the universe in Bridhadishvara Temple at Thanjavur, and the celestial alignments of Vijayanagara, the “City of Victory,” all confirm the impact of the sky in Hindu India and are all UNESCO World Heritage sites.
The history of South India covers a span of over two thousand years during which the region saw the rise and fall of many powerful and extraordinary dynasties and empires. The many temples we explore contain some of the greatest architectural and sculptural achievements in India. From fragrant tea plantations to many-hued spice markets, vividly painted and ornate temple facades, and glistening montane rain forests to sun-splattered beaches, an infinite feast for the senses awaits. A journey to this hemisphere offers the receptive traveler an exceptional opportunity to explore a unique and often seemingly enchanted land.
Several of our overnights will be memorable as we stay in the Spice Village, a series of grass-thatched bungalows set among the old tea plantations and jungle clad hills; the Sterling Swamimalai where charming cottages are scattered in lush gardens around a hundred year old villa; and the Coconut Lagoon, which Conde Nast Traveller has described as one of the 25 Best Destinations in the World. As an added delight, we will spend several days in the Kerala Backwaters, and spend a night on a kettuvallam or houseboat, touring a meandering stretch of tranquil, emerald-green lagoons and lakes crisscrossed by canals. Kerala is rated one of the top three tourist destinations by the World Travel & Tourism Council and was featured in National Geographic Traveler's '50 greatest places of a lifetime'.
Please join Far Horizons and Griffith Observatory Director Dr. E.C. Krupp on this 22-day astronomically oriented expedition to southern India in a search for the connections between astronomy and culture.
ITINERARY:
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breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner |
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Day 1: Gather in New York’s JFK Airport for our evening group flight to Dubai and on to Mumbai.
Day 2 Arrive Mumbai. We will have lunch in a restaurant in the airport. In the afternoon, we board a flight for the short trip to Ahmedabad. Overnight for three nights in the 5-star Taj Residency Ummed in Ahmedabad. Dinner is on our own this evening. (L)
Day 3: Ahmedabad was founded in 1411 by Sultan Ahmad Shah to serve as the capital of the Sultanate of Gujarat. Architecturally, the city boasts some of the most interesting examples of fifteenth century Gujarati style. The Jami Masjid and the mausoleum of Ahmad Shah are an adaptation of indigenous Hindu and Jain architecture, the Siddi Saiyad Mosque is renowned for its exquisite yellow stone latticework, and the Rani Sipri's mosque is an elegant dedication to Sultan Mahmud Begara's Hindu wife. We will view the Dada Hari Ni Vav, a step well built in 1501, and the Hathee Singh Jain Temple, built outside Delhi Gate in 1850 by a rich Jain merchant. This is the best known of Ahmedabad's many ornate Jain Temples. Sabarmati Ashram was the scene of many events of the India independence movement and where Gandhi made his home. In the afternoon drive to Lothal, settled and built about 4500 years ago. It was a major urban center of the Indus Valley civilization, which also established Mohenjo Daro and Harappa in Pakistan. The foundations of this well-planned city are still evident, and the site’s Archaeological Museum displays objects found there.Gather this evening for our gala welcome dinner party. (B/L/D)
Day 4: Our all day excursion takes us to Modhera. In addition to Jain temples and carved wooden houses, Modhera hosts the Sun Temple, our primary objective. The Modhera Sun Temple was built by Raja Bhimdev I in 1026 A.D. It is cardinally oriented, and the sun is said to strike the inner sanctum at noon each day. This sanctuary is open to the sky, and its walls and pillars are lavishly ornamented with images of gods in a celestial hierarchy. The entrance hall has 12 representations of Surya, the sun, and they appear to correspond to the 12 months of the year. A spectacular tank, or artificial pool, fronts the temple and symbolizes the primordial milky ocean from which the sun emerged in the Churning undertaken by the demons and gods. We shall also stop at Patan, the capital of Gujarat between the eighth and fifteenth centuries, home of the famous Patola silk saris. The ruins of Anhilwada are just 1.3 miles to the northwest. (B/L/D)
Day 5: Fly to Bangalore, the capital city of the southern Indian state of Karnataka. Known as the Garden City, it is now also regarded as India’s “Silicon Valley” for its information and technology industry. Bangalore was founded in the sixteenth century, and it possesses many historic buildings and picturesque sites. In the afternoon, we shall visit Vidhana Soudha (the State Secretariat), built in 1954; Lalbagh Garden, one of the most diverse botanical gardens in southern Asia; Cubbon Park, with its statues and formal landscaping; Gavi Gangadhareshvara Temple, a natural cave with two granite pillars topped with huge disks, one for the sun and the other for the moon; Mysore Arts and Crafts Centre, and the Commercial Street. Overnight in The Park, a boutique hotel. (B/L/D)
Day 6: Today we drive eight hours and 286 miles north to Hospet, our base for Hampi, or Vijayanagara—the City of Victory. Overnight for two nights in the Malligi Tourist Home in Hospet. (B/L/D)
Day 7: Drive eight miles east of Hospet to Hampi, the seat of the famed Vijayanagara Empire and the capital of the largest kingdom in post-mogul India. Although in ruins today, this city once boasted riches known far beyond the shores of India and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, the wealth of the city is still visible in the architectural remains. The Virupaksha Temple contains the shrines of Shiva, Pampa and Bhuvaneswari, and parts of this temple are older than the Vijayanagar realm itself. Nearby is the 21-foot tall monolith of Ugra Narasimha. An inscription states that it was carved from a single boulder in 1528 and presents an image of Vishnu. The Hazara Ramaswami Temple may have been the private place of worship for the royal family. The most splendid monument of Hampi is undoubtedly the Vithala Temple Complex with its 56 musical pillars. The Lotus Mahal, shaped like a lotus flower, was an air-cooled summer palace of the queen. The Mustard Ganesh is carved from a single stone and is 9 feet tall. The Mahanavami Platform is also part of this Royal Center complex. The Krishna Temple is a monumental complex east of Virupaksha Temple. The King's Balance, near Vitthala Temple, is where kings were weighed against grain, gold or money which was then distributed to the poor, and the Queen's Bath, with its arched corridors, projecting balconies and lotus-shaped fountains once flowed with perfumed water. The Archaeological Museum is in the village of Kamalapuram. Astronomy conspires with topography at Vijayanagara to create a sacred geography with cosmographic symbolism for ritual intended to sanctify kingship. This topography involves four sacred hills—Matanga, Hemakuta, Anjenadri, and Malyavanta. The sightline from Virupaksha Temple and Hemakuta Hill to Matanga Hill continues over the central enclosure of the Royal Center to Malyavanta Hill. We shall ascend each hill for views of the sightlines. We shall examine the summer solstice sunrise line from the Hundred-columned Hall near Hazara Ramachandra Temple to Malyavanta Hill. We shall view the north/south axis of the site from the corridor between the east enclosure, with the Hundred-columned Hall, and the west enclosure, with the Palace. The sightline continues to Ramachandra Temple, to Matanga Hill, to Kodandarama Temple, where figures from the Ramayana are illustrated, and finally on to Anjenadri Hill, across the Tungabhadra River. (B/L/D) ...more photos...
Day 8: Today we will travel for approximately eight hours from Hospet to Chikmaglur, which is about 10 miles northwest of Halebid and Belur and about 65 miles south of Shimoga. Overnight in the Taj Garden Retreat in Chikmaglur for two nights. (B/L/D)
Day 9: The morning is free to explore Chikmagular at our leisure. In the afternoon, we visit Belur-Halebid and see a style of architecture unique to the region. The temples were built in the twelfth to thirteenth centuries by Hoysala rulers. Each small, compact shrine is lavishly adorned with sculpture, including sensual depictions of the human form, and the outer walls have rows of intricate figures narrating episodes from the Ramayana, Bharatha and Bhagavata. The density of this sculptural scheme is exclusive to Hoysala art and was never replicated. Prime sites in the area include Hoysaleshvara Temple in Halebid, with the Archaeological Museum, and Chennakeshava Temple in Belur. (B/L/D)
Day 10: In the morning, we drive to Bangalore. Along the way stop to explore Sravanbelgola, a sacred Jain site. In the 3rd century BC Chandragupta Maurya, India's first great emperor, retreated to Sravanbelgola after he had renounced worldly ways and embraced Jainism. Dominating the site is a 50-foot tall statue of Lord Gomteshwara that is hewn from a single rock - the largest freestanding sculpture in India. A major festival is scheduled to occur here every 12 years, a cycle linked to the movement of the planet Jupiter. It was last held in 2005. In the evening, fly from Bangalore to Cochin, an important spice trading center and sea port, known as the Queen of the Arabian Sea. Pepper and cardamom, cinnamon and ginger, nutmeg, mace and anise from the Periyar hills – all were transported to Cochin to be shipped to a spice-hungry world. (B/L/D)
Day 11: Cochin is full of echoes of Kerala's past colonizers, including Hindu and Mughal dynasties, Portuguese and Dutch conquerors and the British Empire - which came seeking control of the lucrative pepper trade. The city hosts the oldest church in India, 500-year-old Portuguese houses, old tiled houses built in the Chinese pagoda style, and a Jewish community whose roots go back to the Diaspora. We spend the morning seeing the sites of this lovely city. Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace), built by the Portuguese in 1557, was then presented to the Raja of Cochin. The most important feature here is the murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Puranic legends connected with Shiva, Vishnu, Krishna, Kumara and Durga. Lined along the sea-front, Chinese fishing nets exhibit a mechanical method of catching fish, introduced by Chinese traders from the court of Kublai Khan. In the afternoon, drive to Kumarakom, located on the edge of the great Vembanad Lake, an inland sea that stretches across central Kerala. Fittingly, Coconut Lagoon Resort can be reached only over the water. We will travel to this former coconut plantation onboard a wooden boat. The hotel lobby, a reconstructed 19th century mansion with a stone jetty attached, will greet us. Tile-roofed bungalows, set amidst the abundant foliage will be our home for the next two nights. Conde Nast Traveller has described Coconut Lagoon as one of the 25 best destinations in the world. In the evening, enjoy a sunset cruise through Lake Vembanad. (B/L/D)
Day 12: For the birding enthusiasts, depart by boat early this morning to Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, a favorite gathering place of migratory birds like the Siberian stork, egret, darter, heron and teal. The rest of the day is free to explore the area, or take advantage of Coconut Lagoon’s Ayurvedic Massage Center. (B/L/D)
Day 13: Kerala is rated one of the top three tourist destinations by the World Travel & Tourism Council and featured in National Geographic Traveler's '50 greatest places of a lifetime'. And what makes it so enchanting is its network of canals, lakes, lagoons and estuaries - the Backwaters – stretching over almost 1000 square miles. This morning we will board our kettuvallam, or houseboats, to begin our adventure through this lush area of palm-fringed narrow canals winding through a vast expanse of verdant paddy fields. As we punt along, we will witness the picturesque hamlets that line the banks, migratory birds in abundance, water lilies and coconut groves, and perhaps the women of a village, neck deep in water, their hair heaped upon their heads like a crown as they search for fish with their toes.Of a unique heritage, the kettuvallam are based on designs in use here for centuries and originally used to transport goods from the isolated interior villages to the towns. They measure up to 80 feet in length, and are created using local grasses and wood, lashed together with knots instead of nails. Each vessel contains two luxurious, air-conditioned suites with private bathrooms and ‘balcony’ from which to appreciate the serenity of the landscape as we drift by. Traditional lanterns are used as lights, and the cuisine created by each vessel’s crew is of traditional Kerala flavor including fresh local vegetables and fish using coconut and spices of the region. (B/L/D)
Day 14: With sadness, we leave our kettuvallam and travel by bus through a panorama of cardamom, coffee and pepper plantations to Periyar Tiger Reserve, located high in the western Ghats of Kerala and one of the 27 tiger sanctuaries in India. This zealously guarded preserve is a repository of rare, endemic and endangered flora and fauna and forms the major watershed of two important rivers of Kerala, the Periyar and Pamba. The protected area is encircled by mountains – the Cardamon Hills to the north and a 4000-foot high plateau to the west – and surrounds the picturesque Periyar Lake, which provides a permanent source of water for the local wildlife. Overnight tonight in the Spice village, a series of grass-thatched bungalows set among the old tea plantations and jungle clad hills. It is a dramatic contrast to the lowlands of Kerala and offers stunning landscapes. (B/L/D)
Day 15: Our drive this morning takes us to one of South India's great temple towns, Madurai, synonymous with the celebrated Meenakshi Temple. The area around Madurai has a rich cultural heritage passed on from the great Tamil realm more than 2500 years ago. It was an important cultural and commercial center even as early as 550 A.D. and was the capital city for the great Pandya kings. Tirumalai Nayak Palace was built in 1636 A.D. by one of the Madurai Nayak rulers. During the nineteenth century the Governor of Madras renovated the complex, and today only the spacious rectangular courtyard called the Swarga Vilasam and a few adjoining buildings survive. Their imposing scale evokes the grandeur of a vanished era. Built in 1636, the Mariamman Theppakkulam in Vandiyur and three miles east of Minakshi Temple, is one of the biggest temple tanks in south India, 1000 feet by 950 feet. In the afternoon we will visit the Gandhi Museum. The Meenakshi Temple complex is encircled by high walls that protect the two sanctuaries for Meenakshi and Sundareshwara. The 12 soaring gopura towers, which symbolize the structure and divine hierarchies of the Hindu cosmos, rise from solid granite bases and are iconically impressive. They are covered with stucco figures of vividly painted deities and mythical animals. The high point of the Meenakshi temple is the Hall of a Thousand Pillars, built in the 16th century; it is as great a work of structural engineering as it is of art. This evening we will visit the temple to view the evening ceremony when the temple bronze of Lord Shiva on a silver chariot is carried to the bed chamber of his wife, Parvati. The colorful procession is accompanied by musicians, temple singers and priests in a cacophony of prayer and temple music. Overnight in the Taj Garden Retreat. (B/L/D) ...more photos...
Day 16: This morning's drive to Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) transports us to Srirangam, an important pilgrimage center for devotees of Vishnu. The island town is enclosed within the seven walls of the gigantic Sri Ranganathaswami Temple and is surrounded by the waters of two rivers - Kaveri and Kollidam. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu and covering 600 acres, this is the largest temple complex in India. Perched high on a rocky hill, Ucchi Pillayar Koil Rock Fort Temple towers over the town. The temple is dedicated to Ganesh. Amma Mandapam Ghat is on the banks of the river and is the site of a series of ceremonies and rituals, as pilgrims bathe for good fortune, priests pray for childbirth, and mourners scatter ashes. Worshippers come here to purify themselves before offering further puja (prayers) at the temple. Overnight in the Hotel Sangam in Trichy. (B/L/D) ...more photos...
Day 17: This morning we drive to Tanjore, or Thanjavur, the capital of the Chola kings. The Great Living Chola Temples are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they include the Brihadisvara Temple. Built in the beginning of the 11th century, the temple is an outstanding example of Chola architecture. Guarding the inner shrine of the temple is the gigantic statue of Nandi, the Bull, more than 12 feet tall. The courtyard walls of the sanctum are covered with wall paintings from the Chola and Nayak periods, comparable to the famous Ajanta cave frescoes. After exploring the complex, a short drive takes us to Kumbakonam where we overnight for two nights in the Sterling Swamimalai, a villa built in 1896 that has been remodeled and converted to a heritage hotel. The other cottages have thatched roofs, wooden framework and courtyards inspired by this main structure. (B/L/D) ...more photos...
Day 18: Kumbakonam is one of the oldest places in South India and was the capital of the Chola kings in the 7th century. There are a multitude of fascinating temples in the center of town dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva. Alternate entrances, north and south, of Sarangapani Temple are used when the sun is north and south of the equator, respectively. Nageshvara Temple is used for sun worship during a three-day period in April when the sunrise is aligned with the entrance. Recently declared a part of The Great Living Chola Temples UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Airavatesvara Temple of Darasuram is one of the oldest of the Chola sanctuaries and is a stunning jewel of Chola architecture and sculpture. The vimana, or monumental tower, is 85 feet high, and the exquisite mandapam, or entry hall, is in the form of a huge chariot pulled by magnificent horses. The sculptures and paintings exhibit a vibrant world of dancers and acrobats along with a variety of colorful scenes from everyday life. Our primary objective is Adikumbheshvara Temple, on the east side of Mahamaham Tank, where a great festival is held every 12 years (last in 2004). There is at this temple a depiction of the 27 nakshatras, or lunar mansions, and of the 12 zodiac signs. They are carved on a large block of stone in the Navaratri Mandapa. (B/L/D) ...more photos...
Day 19: Depart this morning for Gangaikonda Cholapuram, a capital of the Cholas for 250 years. Here, view the Great Temple of Shiva containing a grandiose lingam towering almost 12 feet in height. The temple also possesses many pictorial friezes. Later proceed to Chidambaram and visit Natarajar Temple, one of the most ancient and most celebrated shrines in India. The roof of this Shiva temple is composed of 21,600 gold tiles and 72,000 nails, representing the breaths a human takes each day. Continue to Mahabalipuram (Mahabalipuram), the chief seaport of the Pallavas who ruled over much of South India from as early as the first century BC. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mamallapuram is recognized as containing some of the greatest architectural and sculptural achievements in India. At the southern edge of Mahabalipuram is a group of five free-standing temples. Four of them were carved out of a single long granite boulder and are detailed replicas of ancient wooden structures. Built of granite blocks, the Shore Temple is the earliest known example of a stone-built temple in South India. The sculptured rock relief known as Bhagiratha’s Penance illustrates the descent of the Ganges, which begins in the heavens as the Milky Way. The celestial river descends from the sky to the summit of Mount Meru, the cosmic axis mountain, and then splashes and flows through the Hindu world. Overnight in the GRT Temple Bay Hotel for two nights. (B/L/D)
Day 20: Early this morning, we revisit Bhagiratha’s Penance for a better view of the relief detail in morning light as well as the Shore Temple. Then it's on to Kanchipuram (Kanchi). The city has served as a royal capital to great empires for centuries, and this is reflected in the many exceptional temples. The temple of Kailashnath, dedicated to Shiva, contains splendid carvings of divinities, including a depiction of a dance competition between Lord Shiva and the Goddess Parvathi. The linga on the outside wall of Kailasanatha Temple catches sunlight every day. We then explore Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, where warlike feats of the Pallava rulers are depicted in bas-relief style on the temple walls. Ekambareshvara Temple contains one of the tallest gopuras, or entrance towers, in India, and the inner walls are decorated with 1,008 Shiva linga.Varadharaja Perumal Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, was built by the Cholas in 1053. Gather for our gala final dinner party. (B/L/D) ...more photos...
Day 21: In the morning, drive to Chennai with a stop at the Dakshin Chitra Folk Museum. In the early afternoon transfer to the GRT Grand Hotel with time to relax and freshen up before going to the airport at midnight for our international flight back to the USA. Dinner is on our own this evening. (B/L)
Day 22: Arrive New York’s JFK.
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breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner
TRIP LEADER: Dr. E.C. Krupp is the director of the Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles. He is the author of Skywatchers, Shamans & Kings: Astronomy and the Archaeology of Power; Beyond the Blue Horizon, Echoes of the Ancient Skies, The Comet and You, The Big Dipper and You, The Moon and You, and The Rainbow and You; editor and co-author of In Search of Ancient Astronomies and Archaeoastronomy and the Roots of Science; contributing editor with a monthly column in Sky & Telescope magazine; frequent lecturer and veteran leader of UCLA Extension field study tours. Dr. Krupp has visited more than 1800 ancient and prehistoric sites.
2009 TRIP DATES: January 24 – February 14, 2009
TRIP COST: $10,995.00 (per person, double occupancy) Includes international flights from JFK to India; all hotels, most meals (as noted in the brochure), entry fees, ground transportation, and three domestic flights within India.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: a donation as outlined below, passport or visa fees, airport taxes, gratuities to guides and drivers; beverage or food not on regular menus; alcoholic drinks; laundry; excess baggage charges; email, telephone and fax charges; or other items of a personal nature.
SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: $2,225.00. Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged.
NOTE ON DONATION: As a tour company that benefits from the cultural and natural riches of our destinations, we have a policy of donating to the scientific and cultural projects and museums we visit. This has created a bond between Far Horizons and the academic and local communities that has helped us establish an extensive list of lecturers and contacts in each of our destinations. We ask that each participant write a check to the noteworthy project we designate. The donation amount is $150.00 per person and is made by check directly to the donation project. Note that the donation is required as part of your registration for the trip and that it is non-refundable. We will be designating a donation project for this trip shortly.
DEPOSIT AND FINAL PAYMENT: A deposit of $500.00 is required with your reservation. Final payment is due 75 days before departure (November 10, 2008). Upon receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a clothing and equipment list. An information book designed for this trip, including maps of archaeological sites and articles of pertinent interest, will be sent upon receipt of final payment.
CANCELLATION AND REFUNDS: Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before departure will result in an administrative fee of $250.00. Cancellations received less than 75 days before departure will not receive a refund. If for any reason you are unable to complete the trip, Far Horizons will not reimburse any fees. Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip cancellation.
LIMITED TO 18 PARTICIPANTS
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