CHRISTMAS IN OAXACA
With Epigrapher Stanley Paul Guenter
December 19 – 27, 2008

Mexicans often say, “Somos muy fiesteros,” we love a good celebration! Nowhere else like in Oaxaca does this statement ring true. Throughout December, city streets come alive with color and pageantry as citizens commemorate everything from their patron saint’s day to the artistry of the lowly radish. Christmas preparations and celebrations take place almost daily from mid-month until the end of the year, and nightly posadas (religious processions) accompanied by music and song recall the Holy Family’s search for lodging in Bethlehem.

We have designed a very special trip that includes leisurely visits to archaeological sites, private visits to the studios and workshops of well-known artists and craftspeople, and dining on memorable food of the region.  Visit renovated Colonial churches built in the 15th and 16th centuries some of which contain exquisite, hand-made and recently-restored pipe organs from the same era. Enjoy specially-arranged private talks and demonstrations by renowned collectors and artists in Arrazola, Santo Tomás Jalieza, Ocotlán, and Teotitlán del Valle. As an added treat, dine on delicious regional cuisine in several of the city’s most outstanding restaurants.

Join Far Horizons on this very special nine-day Christmas trip to Oaxaca that highlights the colorful celebrations of the season and the unique folk art of the neighboring villages.

ITINERARY: (B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner

DAY 1: Arrive Oaxaca, a Colonial city surrounded by the Sierra Madre Mountains and set in a spectacular valley with a 3000-year-old history. Throughout the region, Zapotec and Mixtec ruins and the extraordinary Colonial architecture recall the achievements of its inhabitants while exquisite folk art reflects the vibrancy of today’s culture. Upon arrival, we check into the small and charming Hotel Aitana, housed in a historic building and conveniently located in the downtown section of the city. This will be our home for the duration of the trip. Our welcome dinner will be in El Asador Vasco, one of Oaxaca’s many fine restaurants, where nightly serenades by tunas (traditionally dressed minstrels) help to evoke medieval Spain. (D)

DAY 2: Our all day walking tour of the historic downtown section begins with a visit to the Governor’s Palace on the zócalo, or main plaza of the city. Here, colorful murals portray important characters in Mexico’s history. Walk to the Rufino Tamayo Museum to see a wonderful collection of pre-Hispanic art left to the city by one of Mexico’s most famous painters and muralists. Stop to see the Cathedral of Oaxaca containing an organ constructed in 1690. Lunch will be in a delightful restaurant located near the zócalo. Spend the afternoon in the Santo Domingo Cultural Center, housed in the cloister of the breathtaking Church of Santo Domingo. Until 1992, the ex-convent was used as an army base. Recently restored, it now is a museum displaying an amazing array of stunning artifacts from the valley sites as well as the extraordinary Mixtec treasures found at Monte Albán. Within the walls encircling the vast Santo Domingo complex and covering one fourth of the grounds is an ethno-botanical garden containing a large collection of plants that are related to Oaxacan culture, either in the present or in antiquity. We will enjoy a specially arranged tour of the garden this afternoon. Dinner is on our own this evening. This is the night of the calendas, a procession around the zócalo of motorized floats representing different churches of the city and the celebration that concludes the Posadas. Each float is accompanied by a brass band, and the simultaneous blaring of different songs adds to the atmosphere of fun. (B/L)

DAY 3: Begin with a drive through mezcal country to Tlacolula. Mezcal is distilled from a species of agave different from that of tequila. Most mezcal has a very strong smell and may or may not come with a worm in the bottle. The Capilla del Mártir parochial church in Tlacolula is a stunning display of virtuosity in wrought iron. The doorway, choir screen, and pulpit, with their baroque convolutions, have no equals in Mexico's religious architecture. Also eye-catching are the realistic, almost life-size sculptures of the 12 apostles in their various manners of martyrdom. A few years ago, a secret passage was found in the church, leading to a room that contained valuable silver religious pieces. The silver was hidden during the Revolution of 1916, when there was a tide of anti-clerical sentiment; the articles are now back in the church. The village is famous for its indigenous market, one of the largest in the area, held every Sunday. From here, depart for the Mixtec archaeological site of Mitla, renowned for its spectacular fine-cut mosaic fretwork on the interior and exterior walls of palace buildings. Nearby is Teotitlán del Valle, a village whose name means Place of the Gods in the Nahuatl language. After the conquest, Dominican missionaries introduced sheep to this village and since then it has become distinguished for the manufacture of hand-loomed rugs, blankets and serapes. By special arrangement, we meet privately with renowned weaver Isaac Vasquez for a demonstration and talk about his work using only hand-made natural dyes and wools. Sr. Vasquez’ work is represented in private collections and museums all over the world. After lunch, we return to Oaxaca with a stop en-route at Tlacochahuaya's 15th -century convent to see its ancient sun clock and interior walls adorned with traditional paintings by Native artists and housing a pipe organ originally constructed in 1650 that has been recently restored. By special arrangement, and if available, we meet with Cicely Winter, a member of the Organ Restoration Project, who will talk with us about the history of these musical instruments and the restoration project, and give us a short recital on this lovely organ. Tonight, Oaxacans celebrate La Noche de Rábanos, or Night of the Radishes, an extraordinary festival combining religion, agriculture and art. Oaxaca’s zócalo is transformed with garlands of flower-studded laurels as families compete for prizes with displays of elaborate and intriguing sculptures, all made from radishes. (B/L/D)

DAY 4: This morning we visit three rarely visited sites. Lambityeco was not begun until about 300 AD, late for this area. An important find here was a tomb containing large, carved stucco heads of the God of Fertility, Cocijo. Dainzú is an extensive site containing several platforms and a ballcourt similar to the one found at Monte Albán. Nearby, the hilltop site of Yagul is crowned by a fortress with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside. Located within the fortified walls are buildings encircling plazas, several Mixtec tombs and the valley's largest ballcourt. Dinner is planned in the lovely garden patio of El Naranjo restaurant, located a block from the zócalo in a restored 19th-century colonial home and featuring contemporary Oaxacan cuisine based on a century of family recipes and prepared by Chef Iliana de la Vega. (B/L/D)

DAY 5:  Today we spend the morning at the magnificent site of Monte Albán, spanning the crest of an artificially flattened mountain top. Dating from 500 BC, Monte Albán was a major Zapotec ceremonial center; more than 150 tombs have been found here containing some of the richest treasures in the Americas. We will see the famous danzantes, incised figures once thought to be dancers but which are now thought to represent mutilated captives. Upon return to the city, we will stop by the Museo de Filatelia to view a rich selection of Mexican and Oaxacan stamps. We regroup this evening for our dinner in Casa Oaxaca, considered the best restaurant in the city. (B/L/D)

DAY 6: Today is free to relax, visit Oaxaca’s wonderful markets and shops or continue exploring the city. Lunch and dinner are on our own. (B)

DAY 7:  Today begins with a visit to Zaachila. According to the codices, after the Zapotec kings abandoned Monte Albán, Zaachila became their capital. The tombs that have been found here are decorated with relief sculptures of the rulers and the gods they served. The nearby village of Arrazola is home to master carver Manuel Jimenez, the originator of the whimsical brightly colored woodcarving style that is now associated with Oaxaca. We will meet Sr. Jimenez' family and learn about the inspiration their father has found in the forms of nature that surrounded him. After time to explore the town and view the work of other carvers, we continue to the 16th-century Dominican convent of Cuilapán. This imposing and truly unforgettable church and monastery complex stands alone in the landscape, a timeless remembrance of the influence of the Dominican clergy in Colonial Mexico. Dinner is on our own this evening. (B/L)

DAY 8: We begin the day in Ocotlán de Morelos, where villagers have gathered flowers and tree branches to create their nacimiento (Nativity scene) at the village church. The church and ex-convent, restored by the famous Mexican artist, Rodolfo Morales, is now a dazzling and exquisitely tasteful complex that contains a museum displaying the artwork of local artists and artisans. While in Octolán, we will meet with the legendary Aguilar sisters in their home studios, internationally renowned contemporary folk artists. First “discovered” by Nelson Rockefeller in his visits to Mexico in the 1970's in search of fine pieces for his collection, their painted clay figures appear in important collections of Mexican folk art all over the world. In San Bartolo Coyótepec, the valley's famed black pottery is hand-molded by an age-old technique and fired in pit kilns. Here we will enjoy a private demonstration by the family of Doña Rosa Real de Nieto, who developed the method of burnishing the clay with quartz stones to achieve its distinctive shine. In the village of San Tomás Jalieza we visit the lovely home of Mariana Gómez Jimenez where three generations of weavers demonstrate the traditional method of backstrap weaving. Finally, travel to Santana Zegaché to see another of the charming 16th-century churches restored by Rodolfo Morales. Dinner is on our own this evening. (B/L)

DAY 9:  Transfer to the airport for the flights to Mexico City and on to the USA. (B)

(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner

STUDY LEADER: Stanley Paul Guenter was born in the prairies of Canada and was first introduced to the Maya culture and ancient script at the age of ten. He has been studying the MesoAmerican cultures ever since. He obtained his undergraduate degree at the University of Calgary, and completed his Master's Degree at La Trobe University, in Melbourne Australia, with Dr. Peter Mathews. He is now ABD (All But Dissertation) for his PhD in Archaeology from Southern Methodist University. He has worked on archaeological projects in eastern Tabasco, Mexico and is currently an epigrapher and archaeologist with two archaeological projects in Guatemala's Peten: The Regional Archaeological Investigations of Northern Peten, Guatemala (RAINPEG), directed by Dr. Richard D. Hansen, and the Southern Methodist University El Peru/Waka' project, directed by Dr. David Freidel. Stanley is one of the outstanding rising stars of MesoAmerican writing systems and has taught and presented at many conferences in Canada, the United States, Australia, Germany and Denmark.

TRIP DATES: December 19 – 27, 2008

LAND COST: $4,495.00 (per person, double occupancy). Includes all hotels, most meals (as noted), land transportation within Mexico, entrance fees, local guide and private demonstrations.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: International and Mexican domestic airfare; a separate check for $50.00 to go to “The Organ Restoration Project”; passport and/or visa fees; airport or departure taxes; beverages or food not included on regular menus; laundry; excess baggage charges; personal tips; gratuities to guides and drivers; alcoholic drinks; telephone and fax charges; or other items of a personal nature.

SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: $395.00. Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged.

REGISTRATION: A deposit of $500.00 along with a separate check made out to “The Organ Restoration Project is required along with your registration form. Final payment is due 75 days before departure. Upon receipt of your deposit, the donation check, and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a clothing and equipment list. An information book designed for this trip, including maps of archaeological sites and articles of pertinent interest will be sent upon receipt of final payment.

CANCELLATIONS AND REFUNDS: Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before departure will receive a refund less a $250.00 administrative fee. Cancellations received less than 75 days before the departure date will not receive a refund. If for any reason you are unable to complete the trip, Far Horizons will not reimburse any fees. Upon registering for the trip, the purchase of travel protection with both trip cancellation and emergency evacuation is strongly recommended.

AIR ARRANGEMENTS: Please remember that this is a holiday trip. Air reservations become increasingly difficult as the departure date approaches. If you wish us to assist with your flights, we highly recommend that you contact us quickly so that we may secure your flight reservations from your gateway city.

NOTE ABOUT ITINERARY CHANGES: Changes in our itinerary, accommodations, and transportation schedules may occur. A good book to read as well as a flexible attitude and a sense of humor are essential.

ORGAN RESTORATION PROJECT: Spread throughout the villages in the Valley of Oaxaca are lovely churches, many with pipe organs shipped in from Spain in the 16th and 17th centuries. Over the years, these musical instruments have decayed. The Institute of Historic Organs is a grass roots organization that raises money to restore these exquisite organs. More than four hundred and fifty years after the first Dominican friar set foot on Oaxacan territory to initiate the process of religious and cultural conversion, sixty-seven historic organs serve today as a reminder of a bygone musical era. During the past twelve years, seven of these organs have been restored. However, the remaining instruments are in varying states of deterioration, their voices silenced by the passage of time. Almost all of these extraordinary pipe organs, constructed between approximately 1700-1900, can be restored or reconstructed, so that one day they too may be able to recreate the sounds which once filled Oaxaca´s magnificent baroque churches. To protect and promote this legacy, the Instituto de Órganos Históricos de Oaxaca (IOHIO, pronounced YOYO) was established in 2000. Your $50.00 check goes directly into the fund to restore and protect these instruments. For donations in U.S. dollars, an exemption is arranged through the Westfield Center for Early Keyboard Studies, a registered 501 (c) 3 tax exempt organization in the U.S., which forwards all donations to the IOHIO after the exemption has been granted. If a tax deduction is not required, contributions may be made directly to the IOHIO.

Please note that some days will involve lengthy walks over uneven terrain. For maximum enjoyment we recommend that you be in good physical health. If you have questions please contact Far Horizons for a more detailed description of the physical requirements of the trip.

TRIP LIMITED TO A MAXIMUM OF 15 PARTICIPANTS