Ethiopia: The Wonders of the Horn of Africa With Professor Neal Sobania
April 12 - 26, 2011
Ethiopia, formerly called Abyssinia, is one of the oldest countries in the world. Perched atop Africa’s highest plateau, the country is protected by forbidding deserts and tropical lowlands. Despite its apparent mountainous isolation, Ethiopia has long been a crossroads for Africa, the Middle East and the Indian Ocean, and a site of dynamic interaction between people from throughout the world. It developed its own written language and has a sophisticated culture based upon a deep love of religion. In the highlands, Ethiopia's Orthodox Church predates the Vatican and is one of the oldest continuously Christian churches in the world. The lowlands are dominated by Islam with the very first Muslims who faced persecution in Mecca being granted refuge in Ethiopia and establishing places of worship before Islam triumphed in its birthplace in the Arabian Peninsula. Ethiopia has a fascinating and rich history which includes legends claiming that the Axumite Kingdom dates back to when the Queen of Sheba ruled the land, and that Ethiopia’s first king, Menelik I, was the son of this queen and King Solomon of Israel.
Far Horizons proudly presents a 15-day trip to one of the world’s most remote and fascinating countries. The trip is planned around the Orthodox Holy Week celebrations where, in Axum and Addis Ababa, priests dress in spectacularly colorful robes to lead the faithful in prayers and chants to God. The exciting itinerary includes spectacular scenery, visits to fabulous ancient ruins, and the opportunity to mingle with the many different people from across the country.
(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner
Day 1: Depart USA.
Day 2: Arrive this evening in Addis Ababa, the capitol of Ethiopia. Overnight in the Hilton Hotel for two nights.
Day 3: In the early morning drive north to Mount Entoto. In 1881 Emperor Menelik II made his permanent camp here after the remains of an old town were discovered. It was believed to have been the capital of the 16th century monarch Lebna Dengel, and Menelik took this discovery to be a divine and auspicious sign for his new capital. We will view the Church of Mariam, where Menelik was crowned Emperor of Ethiopia in 1889, and the Church of Archangel Raguel. On our drive back to the city, we will visit the Shiromeda cloth market. This afternoon we visit the National Museum as well as the Institute of Ethiopian Studies. The Institute was founded in 1963 and established to develop and operate the library and ethnographic museum. Gather this evening for our festive welcome dinner party at a local restaurant. (B/L/D)

Day 4: Early morning transfer to the airport for our flight to Axum. This ancient city, with its half-buried ruins of palaces, monolithic stelae, and subterranean tombs, is one of Ethiopia's most historic sites. The legendary capital of the Queen of Sheba, Axum is today the hub of Ethiopian Christianity. Begin at the Stelae Park where several colossal monolithic obelisks still stand together, marking the tombs of the Axumite royals. Continue to the Axum Museum to view the many Axumite artifacts including ancient pottery and glass, Roman amphorae, bronze jewelry, and clay figurines that reveal the hairstyles of ancient Axum. Visit a historically important dedicatory stone dating to about 320 AD with an inscription written in three languages - Sabaean, Ge'ez (earliest written Ethiopian language), and Greek and named after Ezana, one of the first rulers of Axum. Explore the tombs of King Kaleb and his son Gabra Masqal. Overnight in the Ramhai Hotel for three nights. (B/L/D)
Day 5: Today we visit the Monastery of Abba Pantalewon (Abba is the word for father in Ethiopian) another of the “Nine Saints” credited with transforming a pagan temple into the church and monastery we know today. (Note: To reach this monastery we must hike a short distance up rather steep terrain.). We explore the Hosanna Market, a historical market unique to the days prior to Palm Sunday. Preparations for the ‘Hosanna’ celebrations of Palm Sunday begin this afternoon. We observe these ritual and joyous preparations at the Maryam Tsion Cathedral complex as priests and deacons lead worshippers often singing and dancing to the accompaniment of rhythmic drumming. (B/L/D)
Day 6: Today is Palm Sunday and the air is filled with quiet excitement. A road trip takes us east through dramatic volcanic formations to Yeha, the capital of the earliest kingdom in Ethiopia. Here, the pre-Axumite Temple of the Moon is the oldest known sacred site in Ethiopia dating to about 700 B.C. It is reputed to be the best preserved example in the world of South Arabian style temple architecture. Next to the shrine is the Church of Abune Aftse, one of the “Nine Saints” who came to Ethiopia in the sixth century from the eastern Roman Empire and did much to spread Christianity in the country. This building's front facade has been fitted with carved stones from the original temple. This afternoon we explore Dungur, an elite residence popularly thought to be the Palace of the Queen of Sheba followed by a visit to an artist's studio. (B/L/D)

Day 7: This morning we fly from Axum to Lalibela, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lalibela is often called the Eighth Wonder of the World as it contains towering churches that were carved below the earth’s surface from the soft, volcanic tuff in which they stand. Some churches lie almost completely hidden in deep trenches, and others stand in open quarried caves. A complex and bewildering labyrinth of tunnels and narrow passageways with crypts, grottoes, and galleries connects them all. Within this mystical world, priests go about their daily tasks, seemingly oblivious of the outside world. Standing 38 feet tall with seventy-two pillars, Medhane Alem is not only the largest in Lalibela, it is the largest monolithic rock-hewn church in the world. The oldest of the churches, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Bet Maryam is the only Lalibela monolith with a porch. The remains of exquisite early frescoes can be seen on the ceiling and upper walls, and there are many elaborately carved details on the piers, capitals, and arches. Bet Golgotha houses remarkable reliefs of figures, early Christian art rarely seen in other parts of Ethiopia. Some consider the cruciform-shaped Bete Giorgis the most perfect and beautiful church here; its interior is dominated by depictions of Saint George killing the dragon. Overnight for two nights at the Mountain View Hotel. (B/L/D)
Day 8: Spend today exploring more of the rock-carved churches of the area including Yemrehane Khrestos, a striking church situated within a cave built by King Yemrehane Christos who ruled before King Lalibela. (Note: To reach this church we must hike a short distance up rather steep terrain.) Dinner is on our own. (B/L)
Day 9: Fly to the royal city of Gondar where magnificent fortified palaces dominate the landscape. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the fortified city of Fasil Ghebbi was the residence of the Ethiopian emperor Fasilides and his successors. Surrounded by a 300-foot-long wall, the fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The oldest and most impressive structure is the two-story palace of Emperor Fasilidas, built of solid basalt stones. Other royal buildings we visit include the library of Emperor Yohannes I, the House of Song where royal ceremonies took place, the elegant reception and banquet hall of Emperor Bakaffa, and the palace of this king's wife. Finally, view the Church of Debre Birhan Selassie, an imposing structure with its harmony of brightly colored ceilings completely covered with intricately painted angels. Overnight at the Goha Hotel. (B/L/D)
Day 10: This morning’s drive takes us to Gorgora on the northern shores of Lake Tana. Thirty-seven islands dot this immense body of water, and twenty of them shelter historic churches and monasteries, many decorated with impressive paintings. Board a boat for a cruise on Lake Tana to visit several of the island’s monasteries. Located on the largest island on Lake Tana, Narga Selassie is ornately decorated. The interior walls are entirely painted with exuberant, colorful frescoes of saints and their adventures. Originally founded in the 12th century, the medieval church of Debre Sina Mariam has been recently restored. Located on the forested Zege Peninsula, Ura Kidhane Mihret is the most impressive of the southern monasteries. The walls of the church are completely covered with remarkable 16th century murals that offer a revealing look into medieval Ethiopia. Overnight for two nights at the Kuriftu Resort & Spa. (B/L/D)

Day 11: Bahir Dar is still home to the traditional tankwas, papyrus reed boats made by the Woyto people who live on the shores of the lake. Visit a boat production facility where we learn how this ancient water craft is constructed. Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile and the dramatic Blue Nile Falls which, in flood-stage, are more than 1,300 feet wide. We visit the falls where the gorge it has created is home to a small rainforest inhabited by lively monkeys and a multitude of birds. Continue on to the Besawit Palace, former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie I. Following dinner we witness the preliminary celebrations and rituals of Easter observance which begin after dark and continue until the morning including a Good Friday service at Mehal Zege Georgis Church. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)
Day 12: This morning's early flight takes us back to Addis Ababa. Following lunch, enjoy some time to rest or explore on your own until we meet for dinner following which we attend a nearby church to witness the celebrations and rituals of Easter which begin after dark and continue until the early morning. Overnight for two nights at the Hilton Hotel. (B/L/D)
Day 13: This morning's drive takes us south of Addis Ababa to Melka Kunture located along the Awash River and considered one of the most important Paleolithic sites in Ethiopia. Continue to Tiya, classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, where we can see the northernmost example of a peculiar type of the engraved, standing stone monoliths that stretch across parts of southern Ethiopia. We also visit Adadi Mariam Church, unique for its rock-hewn caverns. (B/L/D)
Day 14: Arrive USA.

Day 14: A morning flight takes us to the fortified city of Harar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in the eastern section of Ethiopia. Completely encircled by a city wall built in the 13th through 16th century and closed to visitors until 1887, the city is considered to be the fourth most holy city in Islam after Mecca, Medina and the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. The city’s mosques include the 16th century Grand Mosque with is beautiful twin towers and slender minaret, and three of its multitude of holy shrines date from the 10th century. The houses of the town show the impact of African and Islamic traditions and their outstanding interior design constitute the most spectacular part of Harar’s cultural heritage. Overnight in Harar. (B/L/D)
Day 15: This morning we continue our explorations of this historic and fascinating town and return by late afternoon flight to Addis Ababa in time for our flight to the USA. (B/L)
Day 16: Arrive USA.
Neal Sobania is a professor of history and the executive director of the Wang Center for International Programs at Pacific Lutheran University in Tacoma, Washington. He began his relationship with Ethiopia in 1968 as a U.S. Peace Corps Volunteer; he later received his M.A. from Ohio University and Ph.D. from the School of Oriental and African Studies at the University of London. His past research and publications - based on an extensive collection of oral traditions - have focused on ethnic identity and formation of pastoralist societies in pre-colonial northern Kenya and southern Ethiopia. He is a major contributor to the catalog Painting Ethiopia: The Life and Work of Qes Adamu Tesfaw (2005) that accompanied the recently closed traveling national exhibition of the same name that originated at the Fowler Museum at UCLA.
April 12 - 26, 2011
Harar Extension: April 25 - 28, 2011
$9,295.00 (per person, double occupancy) includes roundtrip international airfare from the United States; all hotels; most meals as noted; entry fees; and ground and air transportation within Ethiopia.
Cost Does Not Include: A separate donation check for $150.00 per participant made out to “Society of Friends of the Institute of Ethiopian Studies”, passport or visa fees; airport or departure taxes; beverages or food not included on regular menus; laundry; excess baggage charges; personal tips; gratuities to guides and drivers; alcoholic drinks; email, telephone and/or fax charges; or other items of a personal nature.
Single Supplement: $795.00. Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, this supplement will be charged.
Hara Extension Cost: $995.00 (per person, double occupancy) includes internal airfare, all hotels, meals as listed in the itinerary, ground transportation, entry and service fees.
Harar Extension Single Supplement: $295.00. Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged.
Harar Extension Cost Does Not Include: passport or visa fees; airport or departure taxes; beverages or food not included on regular menus; laundry; excess baggage charges; personal tips; gratuities to guides and drivers; alcoholic drinks; telephone and fax charges; or other items of a personal nature.
Fuel Surcharges: Far Horizons must pass on price increases when fuel charges are levied.
Donation Checks: As a tour company that benefits from the cultural and natural riches of our destinations, we have a policy of donating to the scientific and cultural projects and museums we visit. This has created a bond between Far Horizons and the academic and local communities that has helped us establish an extensive list of lecturers and contacts in each of our destinations. We ask that each participant write a check to “Society of Friends of the Institute of Ethiopian Studies”. The donation amount is $150.00 per person and is made by check directly to the donation project. The Society of Friends of the IES is undertaking an ambitious and critical mission to construct a new, computerized Library, with lecture hall, exhibition space, and laboratory for the conservation of rare books, photographs, magic scrolls, and manuscripts. The current building was not originally designed as a library and is both structurally unsound and can only house a fraction of its current holdings. The establishment of the new library will at the same time make available space in the old Palace building for a vastly expanded and improved Museum. This is a one-time effort to preserve Ethiopia’s cultural heritage for all future generations. Visit their website: http://www.ethiopiaheritage.info/the_crisis.htm. Note that the donation is required as part of your registration for the trip and that it is non-refundable.
A completed registration form, a deposit of $500 (per person) payable to Far Horizons and a separate check made out to “Society of Friends of the Institute of Ethiopian Studies” is required. Final payment is due 75 days before departure on January 21, 2009. Upon receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a tour bulletin containing travel information. Prior to the trip, we will send links to various websites of pertinent interest to the trip. Click here to download our Registration Form.
Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before departure will result in an administrative fee of $250.00 per person. Cancellations received less than 75 days before departure will not receive a refund. If for any reason you are unable to complete the tour, we will not reimburse any fees. Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip cancellation.
Note on International Flights to EthiopiaThis itinerary is built around the KLM flight from New York’s JFK Airport through Amsterdam to Addis Ababa. These flights are not daily and are subject to change. Should the air schedule change our itinerary may also change accordingly.
If you do not fly on the group flight, you are responsible for all flight arrangements and transportation (including airport transfers) to join the group. If Far Horizons must change the trip dates or cancel the trip for any reason, Far Horizons is not responsible for any air ticket you may have purchased.
This trip is for the hardy! This itinerary has been designed to be as comfortable as possible, but Ethiopia is under-developed and the infrastructure is not what we have learned to expect in more modern countries. Our transportation, including any four-wheel drive vehicles are well maintained, but may not be new and there will be some long days with travel over unpaved roads. We have carefully chosen hotels that are the best available, but they are frequently not up to Western standards - there will be times when our rooms will not have hot water, or perhaps will have no water at all for certain periods; the standards of cleanliness will occasionally be less than we would like; and electricity might be sporadic. Many of the religious buildings in Ethiopia are not open to women, and we have predominantly included sites in which all are welcome. Walks of approximately 20 minutes may be required to reach some areas, including walks over steep gradients and over poorly maintained paths. The adventurous nature of the itinerary makes it essential that participants be in good physical condition and have the ability to maintain a flexible attitude. Team spirit and a sense of humor will be helpful! If you have questions about your ability to handle this sort of challenge, please call us.
Limited to 15 Participants
Far Horizons Archaeological and Cultural Trips Inc.
P.O. Box 2546, San Anselmo, CA 94979 USA
415-482-8400, 800-552-4575, Fax 415-482-8495, journey@farhorizons.com