Cyprus, Rhodes & Malta Tour

Arrive in Larnaca, Cyprus. Transfer to the slopes of the Troodos Mountains to Casale Panayiotis, a complex of traditional houses that is now a charming hotel and spa. Overnight for two nights. (D)

Travel through charming villages of the Troodos Mountains, the largest mountain range in Cyprus and declared a national park in 1992. Situated predominantly on the northern slope of the range are outstanding Byzantine churches, ten of which are included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Several contain lovingly painted frescoes on the interior walls. Agios Nikolaos Tis Stegis is the only surviving monastery church of its kind on the island and is covered in wall paintings. The 11th century Agios Ioannis Lampadistis Monastery is made up of three sanctuaries protected by one enormous timber roof. The Agios Irakleidios Church displays exquisite images along with a 13th century wooden templon, a screen separating the nave from the sanctuary, with painted decoration imitating a coat of arms. Nearby, in the wine producing village of Omodos, Timios Stavros, or the Holy Cross Church, is one of the oldest monasteries on the island. The interior is richly decorated with elaborate chandeliers, silver lampions, marble floors, and stained-glass windows. Moreover, the building’s imposing wood-carved iconostasis is adorned with gold leaf. (B/L/D)

Step back in time with a visit to Choirokoitia, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. This Neolithic settlement, occupied 7,000 to 4,000 BC, is one of the most important in the eastern Mediterranean as it documents the first human occupation of the island by farmers coming from the Near East. The discoveries here have shed much light on the evolution of human society in this key region. From here, continue to Kolossi. After the collapse of the kingdom of Jerusalem in 1291, this great castle became the focus of operations for the Knights of St. John until they seized Rhodes. Its chief importance after that was as a source of wealth for the order as it was an important center of sugar production. Continue on to Paphos to see the ancient temple site at Kouklia/Palaepaphos, formerly a major religious center for the worship of Aphrodite. Overnight for one night in Paphos. (B/L/D)

Today see the fascinating Tombs of the Kings which date to the 4th century BC. Although no kings were actually buried here, these underground tombs carved out of solid rock served as the final resting place for Paphitic aristocrats and officials well into the 3rd century AD. Among the burial offerings, archaeologists found Rhodian amphorae which allowed them to date the site and form a clearer chronology for the entire Eastern Mediterranean. Nearby, also of great historical import, is the visual feast offered up by the intricate mosaics of Nea Paphos. Considered among the finest in the world, they span the Hellenistic to the Byzantine period and the homes which they decorate have provided significant insight into the architecture of the time. 

Next, stop and explore the ancient settlement of Kourion. Overlooking the river Kouris, the centerpiece of this once flourishing kingdom is the magnificent Greco-Roman theater, which dates to the 2nd century BC. Continue on to Nicosia and overnight for two nights at the centrally located Centrum Hotel. (B/L)

This morning we cross the Green Line, the border between Turkish and Greek Cyprus, and head into the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus towards Famagusta, a Mediterranean backwater until Christian Crusaders came to the region. During the 14th century, it was said to have the richest citizens on earth. Among the many fascinating sites, is the citadel, called Othello’s Castle, as well as the Lala Mustafa Pasha Camii, originally known as the Cathedral of St. Nicholas.  With its three striking porticoes rising toward a six-paned stained-glass window, it is one of the best-preserved and most magnificent of the Lusignan monuments on the island. The remains of the magnificent 14th century cathedral, St. George of the Greeks, presents a rare example of an Orthodox church built in the regional ‘Cypriot’ Gothic style of the period. The nearby Martinengo Bastion was built by the Venetian architect Giovanni San Michelle between 1550 and 1559. With its triangular design it is an excellent example of military architecture. 

Time permitting, we will stop by the nearby ancient remains at Salamis, where an important battle was fought between an alliance of Greek city-states and the invading Persian Empire in 450 BC. This evening, we join the archaeologists at The Cyprus American Archaeological Research Institute (CAARI) for cocktails and a presentation of work being accomplished on the island. Then we are hosted at dinner by the Director of CAARI. (B/L/D)

Our morning takes us once again across the Green Line as we head to Kyrenia, located on the north coast, and considered one of the most charming of the Cyprus coastal towns. We will see the harbor and its guardian castle, originally a Roman fort which was enhanced by the Byzantines and renovated by the Venetians. The castle consists of a simple square with four towers, one on each corner, and was at one time protected by a moat; an inner harbor connected to the outside via a Seagate on the north wall. We will enter the fortifications to view the Byzantine Church of St. George, the French dungeons, and the Royal apartments. Continue to the village of Bellapais, renowned for both the long-term residency of Lawrence Durrell as well as for the early 13th century abbey, originally founded as St. Mary of the Mountain by Augustinian canons fleeing Palestine. Surrounded by cypress trees and with a Gothic aura, the remains are truly lovely. 

In the afternoon, view St. Hilarion’s Castle perched among the rocky crags of the Kyrenia hills. It was built by the Byzantines to protect the island from Arab pirates and guarded the pass between Kyrenia and Nicosia. Next, explore the heart of Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus and Europe’s only militarily divided city. Here there are numerous interesting sites for us to discover. The Lusignan kings protected Nicosia, but nothing remains of the medieval fortifications because in 1567 their heirs, the Venetians, built the present defenses in what was then the latest style of artillery fortification, a great star shape with 11 bastions. Much of the old city has been demolished, but several significant monuments remain within the fortified area. One of the most important is the Selimiye Camii, originally known as Saint Sophia, the Roman Catholic Cathedral.  It is the work of French masons who accompanied the crusaders and is the oldest and one of the finest examples of Gothic art in Cyprus. Another monument we visit is the Büyük Han, or the ‘Great Inn,’ counted among the earliest and most beautiful of the city’s Ottoman period monuments. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

Board an early morning flight from Cyprus to Athens and connect from Athens to Rhodes, which has always been an important strategic stronghold. The medieval city is renowned for its mighty fortifications and archaeological treasures and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its position on the vital trade routes in the eastern Mediterranean has greatly influenced the course of its history. The Knights of the Order of St. John occupied Rhodes from 1309 to 1522 and set about transforming the city into a stronghold. After repeated attempts, the Ottomans finally conquered the city in 1522. Upon arrival, we will explore the fortifications on our four-mile walk of still-standing, formidable city walls, along with the towers and seven gates. Overnight in the 5-star boutique Rodos Park Hotel for three nights. (B/D)

Our exploration today takes in many impressive sites in the Old City. With the Palace of the Grand Masters, the Great Hospital, and the Street of the Knights, the Upper Town is one of the most beautiful urban centers of the Gothic period. In the Lower Town, Gothic architecture coexists with mosques, public baths and other buildings dating from the Ottoman period. We will explore several other buildings and areas of the town including the Mosque of Suleiman, the Jewish Quarter, the Hospice of St. Catherine and the Archaeological Museum, containing a large collection including the tombstones of many of the Crusader Knights of St. John who once made this island their own. (B/L/D)

Standing guard over the southeastern coast, the citadel at Lindos is embraced by medieval walls, which were constructed by the Knights in the 13th century. As we climb the winding, narrow paths between small traditional whitewashed buildings from the village to the castle, we will stop to view the Church of Panayia. We will then proceed on foot uphill, to the great staircase leading from the Hellenistic Portico to the Acropolis and the Temple of Athena. From the top, we can marvel at the breathtaking views covering the great expanse of the Aegean Sea and St. Paul’s Bay, where the apostle cast anchor during his historic voyage to Ephesus. As we approach the promontory of Agios Minas, ancient Mylantio, we see Kamiros, one of the three large Doric cities of the island. 

After lunch overlooking the sea, we will drive to the Filerimos Monastery, built by the Knights of St. John over an early 5th century Byzantine abbey. Inside, there was the holy icon of the Virgin Mary that the Knights had probably brought to Rhodes from Jerusalem. When the Ottomans conquered the island in 1522, the Knights left and took the icon with them; it is now housed in the National Museum of Montenegro. (B/L)

This morning we fly from Rhodes to Athens and then on to Malta. Malta owes its prominence to the Knights Hospitaller Order of St. John. When defeated by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1522, the knights were forced to leave Rhodes. After seven years of wandering Europe, the king of Spain gave them Malta, and the Knights set about transforming the inhospitable islands and creating a series of mighty fortresses. 

Valletta, Malta’s capital and a UNESCO World Heritage city, is an open-air museum. The bastions of this fortress city rank among the world’s greatest examples of military engineering. This afternoon, we take a cruise on a dghajsas, a traditional boat, and view The Three Cities of Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea and Cospicua, located on the Grand Harbor and enclosed by the massive line of fortification, the Cottonera Lines. Overnight for five nights at the Domus Zamittello Hotel, ideally located in central Valletta. (B/L/D)

Today will be spent in Valletta, the city created by the Knights after the Great Siege by the Ottomans of 1565. Our walking tour will take us to several stunning sites in this UNESCO World Heritage city. The opulent Grand Master’s Palace has always been the house of government in Malta, first by the knights, then the British, and it now hosts the President’s office. The many rooms throughout the building contain lavish furnishings and are embellished with precious tapestries, and on the lower floors are fine examples of medieval armor and weapons used by the Knights of St. John and their adversaries. The Manoel Theater, one of the oldest working theaters in Europe, was built in 1731 by the Grand Master of the Knights who personally funded the construction. 

Continue to the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens, and the Old Saluting Battery in time for the noon firing of the canons and with a breath-taking view of the Grand Harbor and the Three Cities. Then it’s on to St. John’s Co-Cathedral, designed by the Maltese architect Gerolamo Cassar in the 16th century and containing the largest painting ever created by Caravaggio. When the Knights of St John built the city of Valletta, they constructed an auberge or inn for seven of their eight langues (languages, or nationalities). The buildings were intended mainly as the residences of knights who did not have a home of their own in Malta. We will see two of them. The Auberge de Castille was the official seat of the knights of Castille, León and Portugal – one of the most powerful of the Order. The mansion is today the office of the Prime Minister. The Auberge de Provence, the palace built for the French Knights of Provence, now houses the National Archaeological Museum where nearly 7,000 years of Malta’s heritage is presented. We will end the day with a film, The Malta Experience, which gives an overview of the history of the island. Dinner tonight is on your own. (B/L)

Board a ferry and cruise across the azure waters to the smaller island of Gozo. Walk through Città Vittoria, or Rabat, the largest town on the island, and visit Gozo’s Archaeology Museum, housed within a 15th century house used for guests of the Knights of St. John. 

Continue to the Ta’ Cenc area where Neolithic dolmens and tombs can be seen scattered through the fields. Our final stop is Ggantija, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to view a complex of two temples that were created more than 5,500 years ago, making them the oldest man-made religious structures in Malta and among the oldest in the world. Archaeologists believe that the type of statues and figurines found here may mean that the holy site was home to a fertility cult. Return to Valletta and enjoy dinner on our own. (B/L)

Our explorations this morning take us to several fascinating, sometimes rarely visited sites. The Cottonera Lines was one of the largest projects of military architecture undertaken by the Knights on Malta. Massive fortification walls, they encircled the three old cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua) and the Margarita Lines. Built in 1675, Notre Dame Gate is the principal gateway into Cottonera and the most imposing. In the 17th century, several Grand Masters built coastal watchtowers that were designed to send early warning signals along Malta’s coast to Valletta.  Among these is the Wignacourt Tower, the oldest surviving coastal defense post on the Maltese Islands. Today it contains a small museum dedicated to Malta’s architectural-military heritage.  Similarly, St. Agatha’s Tower is a former Knight’s stronghold with views over to the neighboring islands of Comino and Gozo.

Professor Nick Vella of the University of Malta, a specialist in Maltese prehistory, will join us today. Our explorations begin in the 5,000-year-old Hagar Qim temple, the best preserved of several ancient limestone temples in Malta. Nearby Mnajdra, part of the Megalithic Temple Complex, is one of the oldest religious sites on earth and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992. In the afternoon, visit a megalithic complex dating from about 3,000 BC and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tarxien contains three temples notable for their complexity, fine construction, and variety of figural carvings; they are considered among the oldest freestanding monuments in the world. 

We will enter the nearby Hypogeum, another UNESCO World Heritage site. Both a burial ground and shrine, it is the only prehistoric underground temple in the world. Found throughout the tiny Maltese Archipelago are unexplained grooves in the bedrock. These ruts (or ‘tracks’ as they are often called) are heavily weathered and some examples have been found under the sea, just off the coast, or end abruptly at cliff edges, thus suggesting a prehistoric origin. There are many theories on the original purpose of these man-made structures. Perhaps an ancient irrigation system or a way of marking ceremonial routes, the most likely explanation is that the tracks are the result of ‘sledge-carts’ being dragged over the same route for hundreds of years, creating the deep grooves that are seen today. 

We will end the day with a walk through these cart track fields. In the evening, stroll through nearby M’dina, Malta’s capital from antiquity to the medieval period. This fortified town situated on a hill in the center of the island, is one of Europe’s finest examples of an ancient walled city. Impressive palaces of noble families line the narrow streets, some of them built as far back as the 12th century. Dinner will be in one of M’dina’s finest restaurants. (B/L/D)

Transfer to the airport and depart for home.