Hidden Mexico Tour: El Tajin to Cantona to Guanajuato

Cempoala (Zempoala) is located only a few miles north of Veracruz. The capital of the Totonacs, it was the first New World city encountered by Hernán Cortés after he landed near Veracruz on April 22, 1519. The Totonacs were a pre-Columbian group that emigrated to the Gulf Coast of Mexico from the central Mexican highlands. Defeated by the armies of Moctezuma I in the mid-15^th century, the community paid heavy taxes under their subjugation. When the Spanish arrived on the Gulf Coast, the chief of the Totonacs decided to join forces to battle the Aztecs. Therefore, Cempoala was a significant staging post in the conquest of Mexico.

After viewing the archaeological site, we drive into the mountains to Xalapa, the capital of the state of Veracruz. It is known as the “Athens of Veracruz” because of the strong cultural influence of its major university, Universidad Veracruzana. Our endpoint is the city’s Anthropology Museum, certainly one of the most beautiful in Mexico. The unique structure was designed by the architect Edward Durrell Stone, an early proponent of modern architecture in the United States. Huge, airy rooms pour down the side of a hill, each one home to artifacts of different ancient Mexican civilizations. Spend a leisurely afternoon examining the splendid display of art, with a concentration of artifacts from the Olmec civilization, the mother culture of Mesoamerica.  Overnight in the Fiesta Inn Xalapa. (B/L/D)

This morning, we return to the Gulf Coast to visit one of the most beautiful locales in Mexico. The remains of Quiahuiztlan are spectacularly positioned on the terraced slopes of a lofty volcanic mountain. This unusual archaeological site has breathtaking views over Villa Rica, where Hernán Cortés first landed, and the azure sea beyond.

Once enclosed by defensive walls, Quiahuiztlan may have been a cemetery for the nobility of Cempoala. While here, we will scrutinize the more than 70 miniature ‘houses’ spread over several levels that were most likely burial crypts. After our explorations, we will continue to Poza Rica and overnight at the Fiesta Inn for two nights. (B/L/D)

El Tajin, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was one of the largest and most important ceremonial centers during the Classic era of Mesoamerica. Here, the impressive stone structures are glorious, many intricately adorned with decorative carved reliefs. There are two distinct areas of the city, with the oldest constructed according to the cardinal compass points and dominated by the Pyramid of the Niches. A masterpiece of ancient architecture, each of the pyramid’s four sides is covered with rows of small niches fashioned from blocks of stone. There is a total of 365, suggesting it was used as an astronomical calendar to track the days of the year. El Tajin was a center of trade. The city’s multitude of luxury items were traded over a wide area throughout Mesoamerica. The delicate, alluring buildings still standing proclaim the former wealth of this lovely city.

In the afternoon, we will drive to Papantla to see the Voladores. In this ancient ritual, brave men climb a tall pole and launch themselves tied with ropes to twirl upside down to the ground. One man remains on top of the pole, dancing and playing a flute and drum.

Move on to Castillo de Teayo, originally an ancient Huastec city. The primary pyramid towers three levels cut in the middle with a central stairway. During excavations in the late ‘40s, archaeologists found carved monuments depicting gods and rulers. There is a small site museum containing some of these artifacts. Several of the sculptures are phallic in shape, very popular in some ancient Mesoamerican cultures. (B/L/D)

We depart the tropical lowlands and drive into Mexico’s central highlands. Here, awe-inspiring Cantona is one of the largest urban centers ever discovered in Mesoamerica, covering almost five square miles. At the height of its occupation, the city was enclosed by a fortified wall. And within have been found at least 24 ballcourts! 

Located along an old trading trail between the Gulf Coast and the Central Highlands, Cantona was the source of rich obsidian deposits extracted from the nearby Sierra de las Navajas. After spending time on site, we continue to Puebla. Overnight for two nights at the Palacio San Leonardo, housed in an elegant 19th-century former mansion located in the heart of the historic center. Dinner will be in one of Puebla’s excellent restaurants serving regional cuisine. (B/L/D)

Founded in 1531, Puebla’s stunning historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was the first city in central Mexico founded by the Spanish that was not built upon the ruins of a conquered Native settlement.

During our morning walking tour, we will see graceful colonial mansions, the 16th-century Puebla Cathedral on the central square, or Zócalo, and Biblioteca Palafoxiana, a library dating from 1646. The afternoon and dinner are free to explore on our own. (B/L)

On our way to Querétaro, we stop to see two fascinating sites. Cacaxtla is one of Mexico’s most exciting post-war discoveries. In 1974, tomb robbers came upon a series of brilliant paintings decorating the walls of this fortified ceremonial and palace complex. Wonderfully preserved for more than a millennium, these images display unmistakable Maya traits and depict life-size scenes of battle and sacrifice, all still infused with dazzling hues of indigo, ochre, red, and black. The frescos in the lower-level chamber appear to be associated with the planet Venus. The room itself is the real ‘star chamber,’ the place where sacrifices were performed on behalf of Venus.

Nearby Xochitecatl, unlike other contemporary sites, appears to have been a purely ceremonial center for a population dispersed throughout the surrounding countryside rather than concentrated within the center of an urban area. Most of the architecture dates to the Middle Preclassic Period (1000–400 BC), but occupation continued, with one major interruption, until the Late Classic, when the site was abandoned. 

Continue to Querétaro and overnight for two nights at the Meson de Santa Rosa. (B/L/D)

A massive pyramid known as El Cerrito stands almost ten stories high, towering over the outskirts of Querétaro. The city was originally settled by people of the enigmatic Chupicuaro culture around 300 BC. The ceremonial center had a long history as a sacred sanctuary, seemingly honoring a mysterious and curvaceous deity of fertility, the powerful mother goddess. According to Franciscan records, devotees were still worshiping at the temple in the 15th century. Like the Castillo at Chichén Itzá, the pyramid has stairways on all four sides. It is topped by the remains of an early colonial church, much like the great pyramid at Cholula.

After visiting El Cerrito, spend the afternoon touring the historic town of Santiago de Querétaro, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city is divided into two distinct sections where the indigenous and Spanish lived peacefully during the 17th and 18th centuries. One section is the grid pattern street plan of the Spanish conquerors, and the other is the twisting, winding lanes where the multi-ethnic population lived. Many elaborately decorated civil and religious Baroque monuments from this golden age still stand in the historic center. Dominating the city’s skyline is an aqueduct created in the 18th century to channel water from a spring six miles away. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

This morning, we drive to San Miguel de Allende, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city was first established in 1542 to protect the Royal Route inland. It played a significant role as a one-time epicenter of the silver trade. The past is revealed in the wealth of ornate baroque Spanish architecture of the 17th century to the 19th century Neo-Gothic. Sitting in front of the Plaza Allende, or Jardin Principal is the Parroquia de San Miguel Archangel. Its grand neo-gothic façade of pink limestone is crowned by soaring towers.

As we wander the streets lined with colonial-era homes and churches, stop to see the Casa de Allende Museum. This was the home of Ignacio Allende, who was a principal figure in the early part of the Mexican War of Independence.

After lunch in one of the charming local restaurants, move on to the UNESCO World Heritage city of Guanajuato, where we can settle a bit as we overnight for four nights. We believe that this city is one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets! During our time here, you will have a chance to get out and explore this colorful and pretty city while we use it as a hub for day trips to some less visited but fabulous archaeological sites within driving distance.

Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

The Bajío region includes parts of the states of Aguascalientes, Jalisco, Guanajuato, and Querétaro. Over the centuries, Native people settled here due to the fertile soil, temperate climate, and the presence of surface water for agriculture. The remains of these ancient cultures are to be found scattered throughout the countryside. Ignored until recently, archaeological investigations within the past decade have found the Bajío, although still little known, to be an important part of the Mesoamerican universe.

Our morning jaunt takes us to Plazuelas. This large center was constructed on a high artificial platform protected by steep ravines on three sides. The central plaza is encircled by decorated structures. Three of them appear to have been intentionally aligned with three hills that can be seen in the distance. A massive ball court, in the shape of a capital I, has been uncovered. Stone serpent figures are at each corner, along with a marker in the center. Hundreds of petroglyphs are dotted throughout Plazuelas. Near the ball court, a rock engraving displays a diagram of the site. Finds of turquoise, copper bells, seashells, and jadeite indicate an extensive trade network spanning from Guatemala to the Caribbean to New Mexico. Artifacts from the excavations are displayed in the small site museum.

In the afternoon, we explore Peralta, another Bajío site and one of the largest in the region. Surrounded by a multitude of terraced agricultural fields, the huge city once covered more than 300 acres. The primary structure is unique in Mesoamerica, merging a massive stepped pyramid with sunken patios and a circular structure built on top. (B/L/D)

Scattered over the northern side of Cerro Barajas is one of the largest and best-preserved architectural ensembles in the state of Guanajuato. During the Barajas phase (650-950 AD), hundreds of structures were built of andesite slabs quarried nearby. Curiously, around 950-1000 AD, a massive, planned abandonment occurred. But before leaving, the inhabitants inexplicably bricked up the doors of the buildings.

The Camino Real Tierra Adentro, or Royal Road, was a 1,590-mile-long trade route. Established by the Spanish between Mexico City and San Juan Pueblo in New Mexico, it was used from the middle of the 16th century to the 20th century. In 2010, 55 sites and five existing UNESCO World Heritage Sites along the Mexican section of the route were collectively added to the World Heritage List. They included historic cities, towns, bridges, and haciendas along with the thoroughfare itself. As we traverse Mexico’s central plateau, we will search out remnants of this age-old road. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

Spend the day at Arroyo Seco, one of the best rock art sites in the state of Guanajuato. This site was ornamented with many prehistoric polychrome paintings depicting scenes of hunting and dancing along with an assortment of beasts – foxes, coyotes, dogs, eagles, spiders, and more. The age of the pictographs is not definite, but they were most likely created by nomadic hunter-gatherers. We will explore two different elevations, “La Zorra” (The Fox) and “La Tortuga” (The Turtle).

Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Santuario de Atotonilco, was begun in 1740 by Father Luis Felipe Neri de Alfaro. It has been said he experienced a vision of Jesus wearing a crown of thorns and walking with his cross. The padre worked with a local artist, Miguel Antonio Martinez de Pocasangre, who covered the interior walls, depicting scenes from the Bible. Today, Atotonilco is a venerated town with worshippers and penitents from all over Mexico visiting on pilgrimage. Lunch will be in a nearby hacienda where we will not only dine but will be able to taste the succulent tequila produced here.

Then we continue to Mexico City, where we spend two nights in the Hotel Historico Central. Located in the historic center, the inn is housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century colonial building. (B/L)

The Museo de la Antropología in Mexico City is not only the finest museum in the country but also ranks amongst the greatest in the world. We will spend this morning examining the museum’s great collections. Special emphasis will be on the often mysterious cultures in central Mexico. After time for lunch on our own at the museum café, move on to the vibrant Abelardo Rodriguez Market. This was the most important Mexican urban renewal project of the 1930s.

Originally designed as a cultural and educational space, it houses not only a market but also a daycare center, theater, pharmacy, dance hall, and library. Unknown to tourists, the interior is a jewel of classic murals painted by acolytes and students of Diego Rivera, including American sisters Marion and Grace Greenwood. Our farewell dinner will be at one of Mexico City’s renowned fine restaurants. (B/D)

Transfer to the airport for our flights home. (B)