North India: Gods, Temples and Archaeology

Arrive in Mumbai in the morning and connect to a flight to Aurangabad. Overnight for three nights at the Taj Residency, a palace-style hotel sited within five acres of landscaped gardens in Aurangabad. Gather this evening for our welcome dinner. (D)

Today, we explore Ellora. This UNESCO World Heritage Site contains 34 caves carved out of the slope of a hill, many ornamented with intricate carved façades and sculptures. Located on a busy caravan route, this spot became the focus of intense religious and artistic activity in the 6th century. Buddhism, Hinduism, and Jainism are represented here. The Hindu cave architecture culminated in the 10th century with splendid Kailash Temple, Ellora’s masterpiece.  Carved from the living rock and completely freestanding, it is a giant replica of the Sacred Mountain.  (B/L/D)

Today, we will journey to Ajanta, where the near-vertical sides of a horseshoe-shaped ravine reveal caves full of dazzling artwork.  Less than two centuries ago, this remote spot was practically unknown. The shadowy entrances had been abandoned under a thick blanket of rainforest, but in 1819, a small group of British troops found the façade of a cave protruding through the dense foliage.  Ultimately, a total of 28 cavern shrines were found, many with interiors adorned with vibrant multicolored murals that rank among India’s most beautiful treasures. These caves predate Ellora and span 800 years.  (B/L/D)

A morning flight takes us to Delhi, where we connect to our flight to Varanasi, located on the banks of the river Ganges. We will then drive to Varanasi’s Raj Ghat to board a craft and travel to the BrijRama Palace, where we stay for two nights. Perched on the bank of the Ganges overlooking Darbhanga Ghat and embellished in traditional motifs – hand-painted frescoes, Banarasi silk walls, murals of dazzling mirror work, and stunning antiques – this elegant heritage hotel offers a glimpse into the grandeur of a golden age of two centuries in the past. The great city of Varanasi stretches along a crescent of the river Ganges and is one of the oldest living cities in the world.  Located on an ancient trade route, the city is among the holiest of all tirthas, or crossing places, and stands at the center of the Hindu universe. (B/L/D)

This morning, we venture to Sarnath, where, in the 6th century BC, Siddhartha Gautama gave his first sermon that put into motion the Wheel of Law, the Dharmachakra.  Siddhartha ultimately became known as the Buddha, the Awakened One, and he and his followers continued to return to Sarnath to rest from their rounds of teaching. Over the centuries, this became a place of pilgrimage, and the richness of the monasteries, temples, and shrines bear witness to the holiness of the site. Most impressive is the Dhamekh Stupa, composed of a cylindrical tower ornamented with decorative bas-reliefs. Return to Varanasi in time for the evening prayers held at Dasaswamedh Ghat. At dusk, the shores come alive with worshipers joining together in the final prayer ceremonies of the day — a truly mesmerizing and singular experience. Every evening, as dusk descends, the Ganga Aarti is performed along the Dasaswamedh Ghat. Using fire as an offering to the Goddess Ganga, devotees float candles and flowers down the river. After the prayers, return to the hotel, only a few minutes away by boat. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

Early this morning, board a private boat and watch the sunrise over the city. Along the river banks are 18th and 19th-century pavilions, palaces, temples, terraces, and ghats, where thousands of pilgrims and residents come for their daily ritual ablutions. After leaving our boat, walk down the narrow, winding alleys and return to the hotel for breakfast. Transfer to the airport for our flight to Khajuraho, the religious and political capital of the Chandela dynasty, during the 9th to 13th centuries. The breathtaking Hindu and Jain temples here have UNESCO World Heritage status.  This afternoon, we will visit the Eastern and Western Temples, famed for the delicate sensuality and eroticism of their sculpture.  Much of the ornate carving that adorns the walls of the sanctuaries is almost three-dimensional, with shades of pink in the stone imbuing the figures with flesh-like tones. Every square inch of these shrines is covered with incised human and divine forms in every aspect of life.  Overnight at the 4-star Radisson Jass in Khajuraho. (B/L/D)

Depart for Orchha, a town whose beauty is due to the eminent 17th-century ruler, Bir Singh Deo. A Bundela Rajput chief, he erected a multitude of strongholds across the region during his 22-year rule, including many of Orchha’s finest buildings. Our explorations begin in Orchha Fort, containing three magnificent palaces. Jahangir Mahal was built as a citadel for the Mughals. Decorated with stunning turquoise tiles, carved stone elephants, and delicate lattice-work, it still reveals its original grandeur. Raja Mahal was once the prime residence of Bundela kings and their queens. The elegant palace was festooned with fragments of mirrors and lively paintings.  The opulent 18th-century Sheesh Mahal, now a heritage hotel, was originally intended as an exclusive country retreat. We will explore the 17th and 18th-century cenotaphs, or chattris, memorials grouped along the Betwa River built to revere the dead ancestors of the Bundela rajas. A kilometer away towers Chaturbhuj Temple, dedicated to Vishnu of the four arms. Imposing spires in the shape of pinecones soar above the impressive 16th-century, multi-storied sanctuary.  In the evening, we will enter Ram Raja Temple, the only temple in India where Lord Rama is worshiped as a king. This is a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site, and we will enter in time for evening prayers where devotees are at worship. Overnight in the Amar Mahal in Orchha, a former palace that still depicts the charm of a bygone era.  (B/L/D)

Depart for Datia, where we will stop to view the rambling Narsing Dev, or Govind Mandir, sited on an outcrop of rock overlooking the town.  Bir Singh Ju Deo built the palace to welcome the Mughal emperor Jehangir for a one-night visit to Orchha and Datia. Even though it was never occupied, this edifice is a testament to the architectural accomplishment of the Rajputs and is considered one of the most beautiful medieval buildings in India.  Continue to Gwalior, where the impressive Gwalior Fort is perched high on a sandstone plateau shadowing the city. Known to be one of the most invincible fortresses of India, it was called ‘The Pearl in the Necklace of the Forts of India’ by the Mughal Emperor, Babur.  As we climb the winding road to the hilltop, we pass through a line of sacred 15th-century rock-cut Jain statues sixty feet tall. Enter the gate in the high walls, and an abundance of sacred sanctuaries, royal citadels, and water reservoirs are revealed. The Man Singh Palace was built by the ruler in the 15th century, and its colorful façade is truly memorable. The exterior displays vibrant enamel friezes of yellow ducks, lively elephants, crocodiles, tigers, and other charming scenes from nature. Thus, its alternate name is Chit Mandir or Painted Palace. Man Singh, an aficionado of the arts, would surely have been pleased to know that this is now considered the only intact pre-Mughal palace in India! The Teli-ka-Mandir shrine was built in the Dravidian style and is notable for its generously sculpted exterior, while the 15th-century Gujari Mahal Palace is now an archaeological museum. In the late afternoon, board a fast train to Agra. Dinner is on our own. Overnight for two nights at the 5-star Jaypee Palace in Agra.  (B/L)

Today will be spent seeing Agra’s sites. Itmad-ud-daulah, also known as the ‘Baby Taj,’ is a delicate architectural beauty. This exquisite tomb of a member of the royal court was designed by the favorite queen of the Mughal sovereign, Jahangir, son of Akbar the Great. It is the first in India to be constructed entirely of marble, the same stone used for the Taj Mahal, and is celebrated for striking architectural details, including finely carved jalis or marble lattice screens. The Taj Mahal, with UNESCO World Heritage status, was built by Shah Jahan to enshrine the body of his favorite wife, Arjumand Banu Begum, who died in 1631 shortly after giving birth to her 14th child. Twenty thousand workmen took twenty-two years to complete this architectural masterpiece, considered to be one of the most exquisite buildings ever created. Move on to Agra Fort, the majestic 16th-century stronghold of the Mughal Empire for generations and another UNESCO World Heritage site. Constructed of red sandstone brought from Rajasthan, the imposing fort is encircled by glowing crimson ramparts and entered through massive, decorated gates. During the Indian rebellion of 1857, this historic fort was the location of a battle that caused the end of the British East India Company’s rule and led to a century of direct rule of India by Britain. After a delicious lunch of South Indian cuisine, the rest of the afternoon is free. (B/L/D)

Rise early to have one more look as the Taj Mahal emerges out of the dawn mist at sunrise. We then depart for the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Fatehpur Sikri, founded as the capital of the Mughal Empire in 1571 by Akbar the Great, deserted by him in 1585, and completely abandoned by 1610. Akbar’s son Prince Salim, later Jahangir, was born here, and after his second birthday, the emperor began the construction of the walled city and imperial palace. The city came to be known as Fatehpur Sikri, the “City of Victory,” after Akbar’s victorious Gujarat campaign in 1573. This superb red sandstone ghost town, certainly one of the most stunning in India, contains elaborate royal residences, formal courtyards, reflecting pools, halls, and tombs, all in a uniform architectural style, including Jama Masjid, a splendid mosque still in use today. In the afternoon, continue to Jaipur.  This evening, we observe a prayer service at Govind Devi Temple, devoted to Lord Krishna and enshrining an image of him that has been worshiped by the royal family of Jaipur ever since it was brought from Vrindavan to Jaipur in the 18th century.  Overnight for two nights in the Jai Mahal Palace, a palatial 18th-century estate in Jaipur.  Dinner is on our own.  (B/L)

The rose-colored city of Jaipur is the picturesque capital of Rajasthan and a vibrant showcase of Rajasthani architecture.  Glorious palaces and temples are scattered throughout the town in an assortment of styles that span the centuries. Begin the day with the visit to Amber Fort with a short stop to admire Hawa Mahal, or the 18th century Palace of Winds. The five-story façade contains 953 finely screened windows and balconies that would enable the women of the court to watch street processions while remaining in a strict state of purdah. Then, on to the Amber Fort, the former seat of the Rajput rulers of Jaipur. We will ascend to the fortress royally—seated on the back of an elephant.  Fortified by natural hills and high ramparts, Amber’s magnificent palace is distinctly Rajput.  The walls of the royal apartments are covered with intricate mosaics of mirrors and colored glass. Raja Jai Singh, the founder of Jaipur, was no ordinary man. He was a scholar and an astronomer, and in building Jaipur, he gave India its first planned city. High walls enclose the old city, and the seven sections within are laid out in a planned pattern, as dictated by the Shilpa Shastra, an ancient architectural treatise.  We will see the Jantar Mantar, the royal open-air observatory with its gigantic astronomical instruments, the largest of Jai Singh’s five remarkable observatories.  We will enter the mammoth City Palace, a blend of traditional Rajasthani and Mughal architecture.  In the center of the compound, Chandra Mahal, with balconies and windows studding its seven-story façade, is still the residence of the royal family.  The first and second floors house the Sawai Man Singh Museum, containing a select collection of various types of Rajasthani dresses, a fascinating armory of Mughal and Rajput weapons, and spectacular swords, some encrusted with jewels and encased in magnificent scabbards.  (B/L/D) 

After a free morning to rest or explore the shops of Jaipur, meet for lunch in one of Jaipur’s excellent restaurants. Our evening flight takes us to New Delhi. Overnight in the 5-star Imperial Hotel. Built in 1931 in a mix of Victorian and colonial architecture reminiscent of the peaceful days of the Raj, it was New Delhi’s first luxurious grand hotel.  (B/L/D)

India’s capital, New Delhi, is a captivating blend of the ancient and modern. This morning, we will visit the two important Mughal sites. Begin at the Qutab Minar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a 14th-century tower built by the first Muslim sultan of Delhi to celebrate his victory over the Hindu kings.  We also visit the lovely complex of buildings commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Humayun’s wife to house her husband’s tomb.  No visit to Delhi is complete without experiencing the narrow streets of Old Delhi by rickshaw, passing food vendors, sacred cows, and the shops of local merchants along the way. Our final lunch together will be in one of Delhi’s fine restaurants. There will be time to rest at the hotel before transferring to the airport in the evening for the flight home. (B/L)

Arrive home.